I visited a mall not too far away from my parents' home. You may be able to guess what I'm about to say: I was impressed. Once again, it felt as though I was back home. From Swarovski to an Apple iStore (a distributor as opposed to an official Apple-owned store) to a myriad of boutiques for Nike, Adidas, etc, and a large department store, it all exists.
I am finally getting used to the "chaos" of the street, with only occasional heart beats skipping as opposed to every other one :)
PS: Here's a shout-out to the good people back home who've been reading and leaving messages: Melanie, Ami, Adam, Scott. Thanks y'all!
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Monday, June 27, 2011
India: A perpetual symphony in sync
The India that had been emerging in my mind shortly after I landed was a bifurcated one: rich vs. poor; educated vs. uneducated; clean vs. dirty, etc. However, I do not believe that perspective represents the truth. Instead, India is more like a live orchestra or symphony. The individual pictures taken at a specific place and time do not do justice to the dynamism and complexity of the place.
Having thought about how to best share my experiences here with you, especially if you've never been here, I'm still at a loss. It's simply not possible. You simply need to visit this place in order to understand it. It's a hodgepodge of a little bit of everything, but together it all works very well. Much like an orchestra in which the individual pieces by the violinist or cellist may sound strange, the individual photos hardly scratch the surface in presenting the true India to you. So, while a picture may be worth a thousand words, the words in this case are all synonyms and don't really describe much.
I continue to marvel at the immense population density and the troubles that come along with it. For instance, driving is a seemingly treacherous activity here. The honking never stops; cars, bicycles, motorbikes, rickshaws, cows, monkeys, dogs, goats, camels, humans all criss-cross in and out of traffic at will yet everyone is very tolerant and I have never seen anyone get angry. The people's patience makes them all saints. The general tenacity is overwhelmingly conspicuous and admirable. I presume the whining-per-GDP ratio, if it can ever be measured, is lower here than in many developed countries.
Here's an interesting image for you: there are a lot of stray dogs, but their tails are almost always up and skyward (a sign that they are happy). I actually tried to approach a stray dog (with the back of my hand) and it freaked out and growled at me. I suppose they are not used to people being nice to them and they prefer to be left alone. But, the point of this happy dog image is that people here accept their circumstances and live with them happily. Happiness is all relative, you realize when you're here. We can't go around feeling sorry for people. Of course, there is a lot of work that needs to be done vis-a-vis improving economic and health outcomes.
Last week I told you that I had a tailor make me a fitted shirt. I got the shirt today and I was thoroughly impressed. I have a picture attached (it's not yet pressed so pardon the underwhelming quality of the photo). So, the total cost? Under fifteen bucks. Yep. Amazing.
This weekend we went to a place called Madhubhan Resorts and Spa in a town called Anand. It's about a 2-hour drive from here. I was thoroughly amazed and impressed. It's comparable to a five-star resort and I felt as though I had instantly been teleported back home. More telling, however, was the trip there on a four-lane toll road. This time, there were only authorized automobiles and, again, it felt as though we were on an interstate cruising at over 70 MPH.
Madhubhan Resorts and Spa
The fine highway on the way to Anand
My tailor-made shirt
Having thought about how to best share my experiences here with you, especially if you've never been here, I'm still at a loss. It's simply not possible. You simply need to visit this place in order to understand it. It's a hodgepodge of a little bit of everything, but together it all works very well. Much like an orchestra in which the individual pieces by the violinist or cellist may sound strange, the individual photos hardly scratch the surface in presenting the true India to you. So, while a picture may be worth a thousand words, the words in this case are all synonyms and don't really describe much.
I continue to marvel at the immense population density and the troubles that come along with it. For instance, driving is a seemingly treacherous activity here. The honking never stops; cars, bicycles, motorbikes, rickshaws, cows, monkeys, dogs, goats, camels, humans all criss-cross in and out of traffic at will yet everyone is very tolerant and I have never seen anyone get angry. The people's patience makes them all saints. The general tenacity is overwhelmingly conspicuous and admirable. I presume the whining-per-GDP ratio, if it can ever be measured, is lower here than in many developed countries.
Here's an interesting image for you: there are a lot of stray dogs, but their tails are almost always up and skyward (a sign that they are happy). I actually tried to approach a stray dog (with the back of my hand) and it freaked out and growled at me. I suppose they are not used to people being nice to them and they prefer to be left alone. But, the point of this happy dog image is that people here accept their circumstances and live with them happily. Happiness is all relative, you realize when you're here. We can't go around feeling sorry for people. Of course, there is a lot of work that needs to be done vis-a-vis improving economic and health outcomes.
Last week I told you that I had a tailor make me a fitted shirt. I got the shirt today and I was thoroughly impressed. I have a picture attached (it's not yet pressed so pardon the underwhelming quality of the photo). So, the total cost? Under fifteen bucks. Yep. Amazing.
This weekend we went to a place called Madhubhan Resorts and Spa in a town called Anand. It's about a 2-hour drive from here. I was thoroughly amazed and impressed. It's comparable to a five-star resort and I felt as though I had instantly been teleported back home. More telling, however, was the trip there on a four-lane toll road. This time, there were only authorized automobiles and, again, it felt as though we were on an interstate cruising at over 70 MPH.
Madhubhan Resorts and Spa
The fine highway on the way to Anand
My tailor-made shirt
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Saturday, June 25, 2011
More from Ahmedabad
I visited Mahatma Gandhi's museum today. The site used to be his ashram and house, and has now been converted to a semi-memorial. Unfortunately, it's rather poorly put together compared to a Smithsomian museum, but I suppose it's better than nothing. For instance, there are lots of pictures attempting to depict various events, but there are no descriptions under each one detailing the purpose or time of the picture. At any rate, it was a good place to visit and think about the wisdom he left the world.
This is my dream, too, for the US.
"US Pizza." I wonder if they know that pizza is an Italian food. It seems as though adding "US" may help any business acquire more patrons.
Yep they definitely have cows. The funny thing is that the cows are well behaved and know not to get in the way.
The epitome of the convergence of technology amidst poverty.
A few locals play cricket on a vacant lot on a Saturday evening.
This is my dream, too, for the US.
"US Pizza." I wonder if they know that pizza is an Italian food. It seems as though adding "US" may help any business acquire more patrons.
Yep they definitely have cows. The funny thing is that the cows are well behaved and know not to get in the way.
The epitome of the convergence of technology amidst poverty.
A few locals play cricket on a vacant lot on a Saturday evening.
Friday, June 24, 2011
From the streets of Ahmedabad
I had a chance to peruse the streets today. It's so overwhelming that I don't really know how to describe it at the moment, so I'm just going to let it percolate before I write about life on the streets.
Instead, I'll focus on my quick retail experience. Shopping here is an amazing experience -- you get the full focus and attention of their knowledgeable staff and are treated as though you actually matter. It's quite gratifying. The choice of product (in our case, fabric) is incredibly vast with varying degrees of quality based on your budget.
As soon as you approach the store, they open the door for you (these are individual boutique type stores and not large retail chains). Often, someone will offer you water - not by asking you if you want some, but it will just arrive on a tray within minutes of you starting to look around. As a side note, I kindly thank them for the offer and never drink the water because I'm trying to be very vigilant about where I eat and drink to avoid acquiring any superbugs. It's really just a personal precaution and not a statement of the hygiene.
The retail experience is pretty cool too. In our case, the sales guys showed us fabric after fabric after fabric based on what we wanted, etc. As an experiment, I have a shirt being tailor made for me. It will take them 3 days. So, we'll see how they do, but I'm confident it will be well done. So, how much would you pay for a tailor made shirt? Add your guesses to the comments section. I'll report back with the price and a picture once I get it and it's satisfactory.
Attached are some pictures from the lively streets. For a larger/clearer view, click on each one.
Instead, I'll focus on my quick retail experience. Shopping here is an amazing experience -- you get the full focus and attention of their knowledgeable staff and are treated as though you actually matter. It's quite gratifying. The choice of product (in our case, fabric) is incredibly vast with varying degrees of quality based on your budget.
As soon as you approach the store, they open the door for you (these are individual boutique type stores and not large retail chains). Often, someone will offer you water - not by asking you if you want some, but it will just arrive on a tray within minutes of you starting to look around. As a side note, I kindly thank them for the offer and never drink the water because I'm trying to be very vigilant about where I eat and drink to avoid acquiring any superbugs. It's really just a personal precaution and not a statement of the hygiene.
The retail experience is pretty cool too. In our case, the sales guys showed us fabric after fabric after fabric based on what we wanted, etc. As an experiment, I have a shirt being tailor made for me. It will take them 3 days. So, we'll see how they do, but I'm confident it will be well done. So, how much would you pay for a tailor made shirt? Add your guesses to the comments section. I'll report back with the price and a picture once I get it and it's satisfactory.
Attached are some pictures from the lively streets. For a larger/clearer view, click on each one.
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Follow-up from the Flagship lounge
I checked on the Blue Label availability -- they did not have it. They, did, however have Black Label. But, not close enough. Still, who I am to complain! I don't think I mentioned that they had a backdoor directly to the gate, which I crossed promptly at 4:00pm, the boarding time as written on the boarding pass. No lines. No senseless waiting and being shoved around. You go from drinking Perrier in the lounge to a cool glass of orange juice upon embarking. Did I mention the first class seat... no? Well, let me tell ya...
Pictures
Organized chaos
(I am thoroughly sleep derived, so pardon the bad grammar and/or poor writing).
I had a delayed flight into Delhi (AA 292), though no fault of AA. The flight was marvelous otherwise.
The Delhi Int'l Airport is amazing. No, wait. Incredible. It's new and really feels like you're in a developed country and it should be a fantastic addition for the country. Our flight, by the way, passed over Kabul (Afghanistan) and I just watched the topography in amazement, thinking about our troops. We also 'chased the sun' for the entire flight, so I have some beautiful sunset/sunrise pictures over northern Canada that I'll post soon. I was asleep, however, while we flew over the North Pole.
As we approached Delhi, I expected to see a very large area of bright lights, much as you would find approaching Washington DC or New York. Instead, I was surprised that it was simply a semi dull glow, perhaps very representative of the developing category of the country. It was a semi-foggy (polluted?) evening, so that may have affected the visibility.
The staff at the airport was incredibly helpful. Unlike in the US, there are a plethora of airline reps readily available. Au contraire to my expectations, I had no trouble going through customs.
An observation about the workforce at the airport: It is almost fully comprised of young (20s), professional, seemingly very motivated to work, and competent individuals. If that's representative of the future of India, great (greater?) things are about to unfold here over the next several years.
And now for the drama.
I had a 10pm connection to make from a different (domestic) terminal. Given that it was 9pm as I walked out of the airport, I had almost no chance of making it, but there was no option other than to head that way and figure out a new plan.
As I walked out of the airport, I slammed into what felt like a wall of immensely intense heat. It's not quite like Florida, which is very humid. Instead, this just felt hot and stale. I had expected a pungent stench (perhaps from all the hyperbole in the media) but thankfully my olfactory senses were spared.
I proceeded to the 'taxi' section in hopes of getting a cab and rushing to the domestic terminal. As it turned out, I had to prepay for a cab. This was an interesting experience itself as I was quoted Rs. 170 and received Rs. 300 from a Rs. 500 bill. I insisted on getting the additional Rs. 30 and finally received it. And so began the let's-take-advantage-of-the-tourist. Once I proceeded towards the cabs, some random old rickety dude came and proceeded to take my 53 lbs bag towards the cab. He probably weighed less. Anyway, it's apparently the thing here: they come and just start "helping" you with your luggage. Once in the worse-than-dirt crapped-out cab, he kindly requested Rs. 100. What?! I gave him Rs. 10 instead, which really shocked him.
People here have a strange way of not really acknowledging your question even though they understand what you're saying and will do it. I asked this dubious-looking-cabbie in his even more dubious cab whether we were going to the domestic terminal about 3 or 4 times before I got an answer. I think a no answer means yes.
And so we proceed onto the road. This is when it really struck me that I was in the India I had been anxious about. The lane markers are simply decorative paint. No one cares about them. A three-lane road is often a four or five lane road. You drive and honk as you go and as you please. You constantly honk so that if you are in someone's blind spot, they are aware of it. Changing lanes at whim is a non event because lanes don't exist in the minds of the drivers. There are people walking on the roads and there are motorcycles and bicyclists happily sharing the road with cars. Somehow, and I'm really not sure how, everyone gets along and you get to your destination. Hence, the title of this post. There's some magical mystery about the organized chaos in the streets; let it be for it defines this place. It's truly a 'share-the-road' philosophy. Not to mention sharing it with cows and camels (yes, I saw a camel). I've been told there are elephants wandering about too -- I want to see that and you can be sure I will be happy to let Mr/s. Elephant go it alone.
I spent the night at an aptly named "Airport Hotel," where they once again tried to fix me into getting the most expensive room (actually a suite). Even though I had not really slept in over 24 hours by now, I thankfully had the sense to get the cheapest room with A/C. Air conditioning is a luxury and one that I willingly paid for; I'm not sure I could have survived without it.
My flight to Ahmedabad the next day was (thankfully) uneventful. It was, however, an eye-opener (really an eye-widener) into what I had seen and have commented on upon landing: the young and motivated workforce. During this perfect people watching opportunity (near a KFC, by the way), it was striking to note that I again felt as though I was at O'Hare or Heathrow. Mostly everyone traveling seemed to have been doing so for business; they were very well dressed and well spoken. I struck up a conversation with two individuals; the first was a Korean engineer who was been working in the state of Orissa, and the second person, a PhD in agricultural sciences, worked at a Monsanto-type organization and was just back from Paris and Marrakesh (Morocco). Both were very positive on the future business prospects of India. I learned a lot about Indian agriculture (40% of the land is cultivated land, not sure what it is in the US; genetically-modified corn is on the rise here; glycophosate pesticides like RoundUp are not bad for humans as long as they are used correctly; drip irrigation systems are on the rise; Israel has remarkable irrigation technology and there is a lot of collaboration between the two countries on the matter).
My flight on "IndiGo" airline was great; it was a new A320 with extremely professional and very well spoken attendants (all announcements are made in Hindi and English). I can't think of the last time I sat in a US carrier with a new (or even semi new) aircraft. The emerging India is really remarkable and seems to be doing so at a torrid pace. As far as I'm concerned, the 'I' in the emerging BRIC economies is very alive and well.
I had a delayed flight into Delhi (AA 292), though no fault of AA. The flight was marvelous otherwise.
The Delhi Int'l Airport is amazing. No, wait. Incredible. It's new and really feels like you're in a developed country and it should be a fantastic addition for the country. Our flight, by the way, passed over Kabul (Afghanistan) and I just watched the topography in amazement, thinking about our troops. We also 'chased the sun' for the entire flight, so I have some beautiful sunset/sunrise pictures over northern Canada that I'll post soon. I was asleep, however, while we flew over the North Pole.
As we approached Delhi, I expected to see a very large area of bright lights, much as you would find approaching Washington DC or New York. Instead, I was surprised that it was simply a semi dull glow, perhaps very representative of the developing category of the country. It was a semi-foggy (polluted?) evening, so that may have affected the visibility.
The staff at the airport was incredibly helpful. Unlike in the US, there are a plethora of airline reps readily available. Au contraire to my expectations, I had no trouble going through customs.
An observation about the workforce at the airport: It is almost fully comprised of young (20s), professional, seemingly very motivated to work, and competent individuals. If that's representative of the future of India, great (greater?) things are about to unfold here over the next several years.
And now for the drama.
I had a 10pm connection to make from a different (domestic) terminal. Given that it was 9pm as I walked out of the airport, I had almost no chance of making it, but there was no option other than to head that way and figure out a new plan.
As I walked out of the airport, I slammed into what felt like a wall of immensely intense heat. It's not quite like Florida, which is very humid. Instead, this just felt hot and stale. I had expected a pungent stench (perhaps from all the hyperbole in the media) but thankfully my olfactory senses were spared.
I proceeded to the 'taxi' section in hopes of getting a cab and rushing to the domestic terminal. As it turned out, I had to prepay for a cab. This was an interesting experience itself as I was quoted Rs. 170 and received Rs. 300 from a Rs. 500 bill. I insisted on getting the additional Rs. 30 and finally received it. And so began the let's-take-advantage-of-the-tourist. Once I proceeded towards the cabs, some random old rickety dude came and proceeded to take my 53 lbs bag towards the cab. He probably weighed less. Anyway, it's apparently the thing here: they come and just start "helping" you with your luggage. Once in the worse-than-dirt crapped-out cab, he kindly requested Rs. 100. What?! I gave him Rs. 10 instead, which really shocked him.
People here have a strange way of not really acknowledging your question even though they understand what you're saying and will do it. I asked this dubious-looking-cabbie in his even more dubious cab whether we were going to the domestic terminal about 3 or 4 times before I got an answer. I think a no answer means yes.
And so we proceed onto the road. This is when it really struck me that I was in the India I had been anxious about. The lane markers are simply decorative paint. No one cares about them. A three-lane road is often a four or five lane road. You drive and honk as you go and as you please. You constantly honk so that if you are in someone's blind spot, they are aware of it. Changing lanes at whim is a non event because lanes don't exist in the minds of the drivers. There are people walking on the roads and there are motorcycles and bicyclists happily sharing the road with cars. Somehow, and I'm really not sure how, everyone gets along and you get to your destination. Hence, the title of this post. There's some magical mystery about the organized chaos in the streets; let it be for it defines this place. It's truly a 'share-the-road' philosophy. Not to mention sharing it with cows and camels (yes, I saw a camel). I've been told there are elephants wandering about too -- I want to see that and you can be sure I will be happy to let Mr/s. Elephant go it alone.
I spent the night at an aptly named "Airport Hotel," where they once again tried to fix me into getting the most expensive room (actually a suite). Even though I had not really slept in over 24 hours by now, I thankfully had the sense to get the cheapest room with A/C. Air conditioning is a luxury and one that I willingly paid for; I'm not sure I could have survived without it.
My flight to Ahmedabad the next day was (thankfully) uneventful. It was, however, an eye-opener (really an eye-widener) into what I had seen and have commented on upon landing: the young and motivated workforce. During this perfect people watching opportunity (near a KFC, by the way), it was striking to note that I again felt as though I was at O'Hare or Heathrow. Mostly everyone traveling seemed to have been doing so for business; they were very well dressed and well spoken. I struck up a conversation with two individuals; the first was a Korean engineer who was been working in the state of Orissa, and the second person, a PhD in agricultural sciences, worked at a Monsanto-type organization and was just back from Paris and Marrakesh (Morocco). Both were very positive on the future business prospects of India. I learned a lot about Indian agriculture (40% of the land is cultivated land, not sure what it is in the US; genetically-modified corn is on the rise here; glycophosate pesticides like RoundUp are not bad for humans as long as they are used correctly; drip irrigation systems are on the rise; Israel has remarkable irrigation technology and there is a lot of collaboration between the two countries on the matter).
My flight on "IndiGo" airline was great; it was a new A320 with extremely professional and very well spoken attendants (all announcements are made in Hindi and English). I can't think of the last time I sat in a US carrier with a new (or even semi new) aircraft. The emerging India is really remarkable and seems to be doing so at a torrid pace. As far as I'm concerned, the 'I' in the emerging BRIC economies is very alive and well.
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
India, here I come
We have not written in a while. I intend to remedy that.
Today is the longest day in the northern hemisphere, a.k.a. the summer solstice. But, it's also more. Much more. Today is also the day I travel to India. Some would call it the motherland. Indeed, it is my forefathers' and foremothers' land, and today I get to go after almost two decades. To be clear, I was not born in India and for all practical purposes, I have never been there. I was there at the ages of 3 and then again at 9, each time for a few weeks, the perfect ages when we all make good solid long-term memories, right? Now, in my late 20s, it's time to make another (a first) visit. The primary reason to have booked this trip is to see my parents who now reside there.
I have been cogitating about this trip for a long, long time. India has only recently come to the forefront of many people's vocabulary due to its rapidly emerging economy as well as its overpopulated land (four times the population of the US, or 1.2 billion, in a third of the space). I have always heard about the extremes of the place: it has some of the world's top 10 richest people along with millions of the worlds poorest. The health statistics are out of this world in terms of the number of mortalities from easily preventable diseases, yet with exquisite medical technology that draws people from the west for 'medical tourism.' There are hundreds of different languages (not dialects, but completely different languages); a myriad of cultures and religions, as well as a gazillion superstitions that follow from this. It's really a miracle to be where it is as the world's largest democracy standing (if you really want to debate this fact, I welcome it). The Gates foundation has dedicated a lot of resources there, yet another reason for the country's prominence in the mainstream. In short, India's mere existence today has been described as a miracle by Ramachandra Guha (see http://amzn.to/miwGfO), and captures everyone's senses from the moment they step into the country.
I have prepared myself for the juxtraposition of extreme poverty and immense opulence of which I hear. I look forward to experiencing the plethora of food and cultural diveristy; I want to see my great-grandfather's small farm (which still produces crops and has 2 cows); I want to speak to the real people and learn what makes them smile despite their conditions; I want to meet again, and for the first time, many extended relatives and family friends... the list is endless.
Over the next 3 weeks, I hope to share with you what I see and experience, in both word and via pictures. Hopefully, it'll be a good experience for you, too.
Now, I must interject and talk about my current location. I am in the Flagship lounge of American Airlines at O'Hare. This is the first class lounge. This is not a regular event for me, so I am making the most of it. In brief, I am using a their desktop computer while sitting on a high back leather seat and sipping hot pomegranate black tea in a ceramic mug. It's wonderful. There's also a lot of food and snacks, along with plenty of every kind of alcohol. I wonder if they have Blue Label (I'll check). Of course, it's all complimentary. And there are little sections in the lounge with flat screens and leather couches everywhere. There is, however, no music so it can be deafeningly silent. They really should have some classical music in the background, but who am I to complain. In short, it's no ordinary place that I am so used to knowing at O'Hare.
And, so, to India I go. Stay tuned.
Today is the longest day in the northern hemisphere, a.k.a. the summer solstice. But, it's also more. Much more. Today is also the day I travel to India. Some would call it the motherland. Indeed, it is my forefathers' and foremothers' land, and today I get to go after almost two decades. To be clear, I was not born in India and for all practical purposes, I have never been there. I was there at the ages of 3 and then again at 9, each time for a few weeks, the perfect ages when we all make good solid long-term memories, right? Now, in my late 20s, it's time to make another (a first) visit. The primary reason to have booked this trip is to see my parents who now reside there.
I have been cogitating about this trip for a long, long time. India has only recently come to the forefront of many people's vocabulary due to its rapidly emerging economy as well as its overpopulated land (four times the population of the US, or 1.2 billion, in a third of the space). I have always heard about the extremes of the place: it has some of the world's top 10 richest people along with millions of the worlds poorest. The health statistics are out of this world in terms of the number of mortalities from easily preventable diseases, yet with exquisite medical technology that draws people from the west for 'medical tourism.' There are hundreds of different languages (not dialects, but completely different languages); a myriad of cultures and religions, as well as a gazillion superstitions that follow from this. It's really a miracle to be where it is as the world's largest democracy standing (if you really want to debate this fact, I welcome it). The Gates foundation has dedicated a lot of resources there, yet another reason for the country's prominence in the mainstream. In short, India's mere existence today has been described as a miracle by Ramachandra Guha (see http://amzn.to/miwGfO), and captures everyone's senses from the moment they step into the country.
I have prepared myself for the juxtraposition of extreme poverty and immense opulence of which I hear. I look forward to experiencing the plethora of food and cultural diveristy; I want to see my great-grandfather's small farm (which still produces crops and has 2 cows); I want to speak to the real people and learn what makes them smile despite their conditions; I want to meet again, and for the first time, many extended relatives and family friends... the list is endless.
Over the next 3 weeks, I hope to share with you what I see and experience, in both word and via pictures. Hopefully, it'll be a good experience for you, too.
Now, I must interject and talk about my current location. I am in the Flagship lounge of American Airlines at O'Hare. This is the first class lounge. This is not a regular event for me, so I am making the most of it. In brief, I am using a their desktop computer while sitting on a high back leather seat and sipping hot pomegranate black tea in a ceramic mug. It's wonderful. There's also a lot of food and snacks, along with plenty of every kind of alcohol. I wonder if they have Blue Label (I'll check). Of course, it's all complimentary. And there are little sections in the lounge with flat screens and leather couches everywhere. There is, however, no music so it can be deafeningly silent. They really should have some classical music in the background, but who am I to complain. In short, it's no ordinary place that I am so used to knowing at O'Hare.
And, so, to India I go. Stay tuned.
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